Wednesday 6 April 2011

DAY 25-31

So another delayed blog post, but with no internet connection for over a week its easy to see why. I'm in the best of moods as this week has gone like a dream. We've had hot weather all week, no major issues with the bike or body, and some of the best cycling conditions of my life.





The landscape of france has really changed over the last few days, we've mainly been cycling through The Rhone valley, en route to Montpellier, and its noticeable how much drier and arid the land has become, it really feels like you're in Northern Spain rather than France. The temperature reaches a toasty 28 degrees most days with no chance of rainfall.

I am struggling to remember most of the minor details of the last week or so, all I can really do is point out the 'highlights'. Six days is just a bit too long without an entry and I've only myself to blame, but when you're having so much fun its hard to beat yourself up about it.

We are now in the city of Nimes at a lovely hostel just on the outskirts. Our main reason for coming to the hostel was football. We've managed without a wash, a bed or electric for six days but we just can't go without a bit of football for that length of time. Our plan has worked exquisitely as last night we watched Tottenham get an unfortunate battering, and hopefully tonight Manu and the neanderthal Wayne rooney will get the same.

It must be said that the wild camping is getting better and better as time progresses, just 2 nights ago we pitched our tent next to the Gard ou Gardon river (shown below) and managed to have a cold, but wonderful swim. We managed to catch a few rays before night fall and sam captured it perfectly on camera. I mean look at those tan lines, ridiculous.


We continue to get caught out by the lazy french on sundays, they literally close everything down. We never really keep track of what day it is and were a bit baffled as to why nowhere was open. Then we realised it was a sunday and started to panic a bit regarding where we would find water. As the day went on we both ran out around mid afternoon and I drank a bit from a village water fountain (a low point). Luckily, we found a small bread shop where we could get a baguette, and just as we were leaving the woman noticed what we were doing and brought us out a big bag of crouissants, no charge. We also managed to get the sacred 6 litres of water that we so desperately required.

Another couple of pictures that need a bit of explanation are shown below. You might notice I'm wearing a Liverpool shirt. I obviously support Hull but this shirt has served two purposes; firstly, it was cheap (7 quid) and is as good as any cyling shirt on the market, and secondly, it annoys my dad. Just after this was taken it got very very hot and my ipod died on me. It was my fault as I was basically sticking it down my pants with no pockets to put it in, and the sweat had leaked into the ipod and blown it up. A bit annoying but quite funny. I think I actually prefer to just let my thoughts wander when on the bike and just take in my new surroundings. Some of these thoughts have led to the decision that I'm going to cycle back through the UK instead of getting picked up at Dover. It would be such a cool way to round off the trip; to reconnect with England and also meet up with a bunch of friends from 'ACE' along the way.



We reached a big milestone yesterday by passing the one thousand mile mark! I just noticed it on the cycle computer and got all excited. When I think about it, one thousand miles is a long way, and to do that just using a few muscles and a bit of steel is quite an achievement.


I must also share the lowest point of the trip, and possibly my entire life before this post ends, however. On our 4th day wild camping we'd finished a long day on the bike, having cycled just shy of 100km, and everything was sweaty and dirty. I had to venture into the woods to answer natures call, and whilst squatting like a dog to take a poo, the feet can accidently intrude on the location of the poo, and led to the lowest point of my life. Basically, I shat on my foot. With no hot shower or even running water to clean myself, I had to make do with baby wipes.

On that note, its time to conclude this weeks events. We're in Nimes for another night and planning on getting to the farm by the weekend. I wish we had longer to discover Nimes, its a really beautiful city with some well preserved classical buildings from the Roman Empire. We briefly met a couple of Americans last night who were here working with the church of Jesus Christ. It was strange to meet them, as I'm a firm atheist and believe religion is the root of all evil, but I really liked them. Meeting them reminded me of a famous quote by Steven Weinberg: "With or without religion, you'd have good people doing good things and evil people doing bad things, but for good people to do bad things, it takes religion". I suppose this quote isn't really that applicable as they weren't fundamentalist terrorists, but still. They were nice and it was good to meet them, I just wish I could have chatted to them for longer about why they believe the Earth is 5,000 years old.

Thanks for a few comments last week, its nice to know who's following. Accordi
ng to my blog statistics I've had well over a thousand page views which baffled me, I only thought it was a handful of friends and family that were following, but keep them coming!

5 comments:

  1. Hey Joe and Sam - great adventure and blog! At times your writing made me laught and you manage to capture really well the thrill of the journey. All the best for the rest... Mark Beaumont

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  2. Hi Joe & Sam

    Just found your blog following a tweet from Mark Beaumont. Your bike journey sounds great - I hope to do something similar myself and maybe include going through Germany too....

    Can you tell me if you are using any specific cycling maps/guides/books to help you navigate through France/Europe?

    I see you had two months to prepare yourself for your trip i.e. doing rides up to 50 miles, etc - was this enough to physically prepare you? How often did you do 50 mile rides before your set out to France i.e. daily?

    Looking forward to hearing about WWOOF......

    Goodluck

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  3. Hey guys
    Just stumbled on your blog, very interesting read (and killed an hour at work...). Did a mini tour of northern France on the bikes last summer and had the same issues in getting food/water in small villages - even bigger ones often shut down completely at 6pm so no chance of a meal out or beer in the evening - found ourselves wondering what on earth French people do with themselves on an evening!
    Smiled when you mentioned WWOOFing, I am planning a year travelling (mostly without the bike unfortunately) heading out this summer and plan on WWOOFing in every country we pass through to learn a bit more about farming and grab the chance to stay in the same place for a couple of weeks. I'm surprised how few people have heard of this as to me it seems the perfect arrangement for travellers and hosts. Looking forward to hearing how you get on.
    Keep pedalling
    Jo.

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  4. I literally flew back from Nimes today! I was told there's only one hostel in the city so you must also have been at the Auberge de Jeunesse? It seems crazy to think that we could have been at the same place just days from each other.
    I'm loving the blog by the way, looking forward to reading what comes next.

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  5. Jonathon - We use Michelin regional maps, we find its best to have the scale below 1:400 000 otherwise there will not be enough detail and it can be very frustrating at times. We have found these maps at any book shops throughout each country and are easily accessable, so don't worry too much about having a bunch of maps before you even set off, just a couple to get going is fine. I also picked up a Lonely planet guide of western europe and travel with that as a guide to each place, it is quite heavy to cycle with but I don't mind as its been so helpful for us when we need to find hostels or specific places to visit.

    In terms of training, I wasn't too tough on myself, I just wanted to make sure I could do those kinds of distances. I did a couple of rides around 50 miles, but I would focus on doing shorter rides but on a more consistent basis. Its very rare that we will cycle for longer than a couple of hours without a nice break, so its quite easy to keep going as long as you keep a nice pace, around 13mph seems about the average for us. My friend Sam was probably in better shape than me at the start of the trip but he didn't do much cycling at all, on the first day he cramped up in his thighs but after that he was fine.

    Richard - you should have mentioned man! We did stay in Auberge de Jeunesse, such a cool hostel, and how funny were the goats!

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